Wednesday, 4 December 2019

DAVID LAMA (Fuzzi) - THE MOUNTAIN GOAT









 

                 DAVID LAMA (aka Fuzzi)  


             -THE MOUNTAIN GOAT

     
 
                      

              



               David Lama was born on 4th august 1990 in Innsbruck, Austria to Rinzi Lama and Claudia Werglef. David Lama is well known for his notable alpine climbing and competition climbing.
He won the IFSC European Championship in bouldering in 2007and the IFSC European Championship in lead climbing in 2006which made him the youngest to win these worldwide prestigious competitions. David earned many titles at a tender age in competition climbing. In 2011, David retired from competition climbing as his mind was always into outdoor adventures. 



          In 2009 David Lama made an announcement of free climbing the Cerro Torre, Patagonia via compressor route. Free climbing means using natural structures of rock to climb the route, the bolts and ropes are only mean for protection in case of fall. Cerro Torre was a controversial mountain which did not have a proof of first ascent. Cesare Maestri is an Italian climber. In 1959 he used to gas powered compressor to drill more 100 bolts on the compressor route. Cesare was accompanied by climber Toni Egger during ascent. Cesare claimed that they both made the first ascent of Cerro Torre without any proof. Toni passed away during the descent due to an avalanche as Cesare says. David Lama with the sponsorship of Redbull made his first expedition to Cerro Torre. Due to unpredictable weather conditions David could not complete his mission. After returning back he faced alot of criticism because the Redbull Team along with David drilled around 30-40 bolts on the "most bolted" mountain. David being the optimist took the criticism in a postive way. He took some time off to find a climbing partner. David asked Peter Ortner to climb Cerro Torre with him. Peter was thrilled and agreed. In January 2011 David and Peter made a second attempt. this ascent has to be aborted as the headwall was covered with ice. Luckily on February 12, they made a successful ascent of compressor route. After this massive success David decided to free climb the Cerro Torre in 2012. They returned to Cerro Torre again and David Lama made is first free ascent of the compressor route. He gained a massive fame with his notable ascent. Great climbers like Reinhold Messner were impressed by him. David and Peter did not stop just there, they went on to climb the trango tower in karakoram range, Pakistan. This was David's first high altitude experience. Having the Nepali roots he developed a certain interest in high altitude climbing.

         
( David has a feature film about his Cerro Torre first ascent- "CERRO TORRE a snowball's chance in hell.")





          In 2015 David teamed up with The North Face climber, Conrad Anker to climb an unclimbed peak in Nepal, Lunag Ri (6895m). Lunag Ri is located in solokhumbu district in Nepal. Conrad Anker is well known climber to have made notable first ascents all over the world, completing two everest expeditions and discovering the body of George Mallory.

  (David and Conrad on the summit of fox peak for acclimatization. Lunag Ri in the background.)

 The first attempt was on Nov 12, 2015 which failed due to bad snow conditions and complicated protection. David and Conrad came back to Lunag Ri in 2016. During the ascent Conrad suffered a minor heart attack. both descended quickly and Conrad was rescued by helicopter. Conrad undergo angioplasty surgery in Kathmandu. David decided to attempt it solo after Conrad was rescued. David had to abort the climb just 300 meters below the summit due to heavy backpack.
 
 (Conrad suffering heart attack)

         (David's solo attempt)

                             (short film about Lunagri)

          David had many plans in Nepal, He met his father's family in and also made plans for his next climbing adventures there.

        (1994 David Lama in Nepal with his parents)
 

In 2017 David along with Hansjorg Auer and Alex Blummel went for a expedition of Annapurna III (elevation -7555 meters) in Annapurna massif, Nepal. The expedition was to climb the unclimbed south face of Annapurna III. They aborted the exped after three weeks of terrible weather conditions. 
  


(short film about annapurna iii expedition)


           In 2018 David Lama returned back to Nepal for his Lunag Ri expedition. He successfully made the first solo ascent of Lunagri on 23rd October 2018. This was a huge milestone in David's alpine climbing career.